![]() ![]() He did say that "the toilet flange is old and rusted," that "a tile is missing," and when the bowl caps are installed the smell dissipates. ![]() Then hit straight down through where the holes make a straight line. Drill holes no larger than 1/8" - 1/4" wide at a time, get them as close together as possible. ![]() Make absolutely sure that you are wearing eye protection! Spending $10 for safety goggles is a lot cheaper than paying thousands of dollars to try to save your eyesight. The drill method will take you a lot longer, maybe 20 minutes to half an hour. Once you have it in two or four pieces it should be easy to crow bar, or pry bar, it out. Just drill slowly and methodically (you don't want the drill to go into the wood, for example.) Once you get a straight row of holes a slight lift from below the flange should break it off, or you can it with a screw driver blade between the holes. See the picture in that link? There are at least four places where they can be drilled. Think at least $500 to repair.Ĭast iron is usually easy to drill. That typically means cutting a concrete block in my house, ripping out wood flooring for you, maybe removing a joist, etc. If you do - imagine the plumber having to dig down about a foot, so that he can put a cast pipe cutter around it. You do NOT !!!!!!!!!!!!! want to crack the cast iron pipe. You will need to make some sort of barrier to hold back the cement as it dries, like using a jig saw to cut a round piece of wood that can follow the contour of the rest of the tiles and be the same distance from the flange. No, you don't want to cement all th way to the closet flange. Otherwise you will need to spend the $5 for a 50 pound bag at your Home Depot or Lowes. If you don't have any cement your neighbour may have some in an open bag. If I couldn't get the same tile, I'd at least fill it up and even with the rest of the tiles with cement. I would replace the toilet closet flange, use new screws to hold it down, and get the right size closet flange bolts from Ace Hardware, along with a new wax ring. Since the closet flange is rusted there is no sense pushing wax all around the closet flange and in the empty spaces around the closet flange bolts. I'm willing to bet that the gas is escaping from under the flange, traveling around the bowl bottom and escaping through the missing tile gap and the flange bolt / toilet caps. Perhaps I need to intall a new flange?Īny help would be greatly appreciated. There is no water coming from there but perhaps a small enough gap for gas to escape?ģ. There is a slight gap near the rear of the toilet where a tile is missing. The flange bolt caps are off and once I cut the bolts down and install them the odor will dissipate.Ģ. (Everything is level as well from the flange, to the seat, to the tank).ġ. Despite this, I am still detected a slight odor. There is no water present around the base of the toilet and everything seems to be in working order. Everything seemed to seal up nice and I there is no rocking whatsoever. I put down the toilet over the flange and pressed down. I figured that I must not have gotten a good seal with the wax ring so I bought a thicker ring (with an attached gasket) and took care to make sure it was on right. Everything seemed to work out well, but later on that day I detected a sewer odor. I replaced an old toilet (probably from early 80s) with a new one. I'm new to the forum and have read threads that have similar problems but none seem to exactly fit. ![]()
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